Get your hands dirty during dinner by digging into some crabs
By Stephanie Citron
Nothing says summertime south of the Mason-Dixon Line like dressing up in grungy shorts and flip-flops and heading over to a waterside shack to get your hands dirty eating dinner. Steamed, Old Bay–encrusted, Chesapeake Bay blue crabs are surely the most familiar icon of Maryland cuisine. Just what makes those creepy-crawling crustaceans such a temptation? Some swear by the gritty, salt-pepper “finishing” spice that makes crabs appear freshly plucked from the bottom of the ocean floor, but others say it’s just the primal process of picking apart a crab.
Long before American food lovers became fixated on “eating the whole animal,” Marylanders had it down pat. The skill required is dissection. Possibly nowhere else in the country can you see everyone — from the governor to a garage mechanic — salivate at the prospect of tearing open a sea creature, ripping off its limbs, digging out its guts, and then devouring it. It’s an art. It’s also a social outing, with hands-on entertainment.
Dining at a crab house is a unique experience. The waitstaff speaks jargon you may need translated: “Larges are 77” means “large”-sized crabs (measuring 5½ to 6 inches) are $77 per dozen (while it is possible to order single crabs, the norm is by the dozen). Seasoned crab-eaters respond with “How’re they running?” to determine which size is “heaviest” (meatier). Availability, sizes, and prices of crabs vary each day, depending on the catch. “Lump” is the large meat chunks from the body of the crab. “Backfin” is smaller pieces of body meat. Old Bay is the famous rock-salt peppery spice caked atop the crabs. Natty Boh is Maryland-speak for National Bohemian Beer (no judgments; even the most sophisticated local palate unabashedly consumes this locally incepted brew from time to time). “Soft-shell” crabs are a famous Maryland delicacy, harvested after they’ve discarded the shells they’ve outgrown, but before the new shells harden. Somewhat resembling a giant spider, they are eaten whole, down to the dangling legs. They are best broiled in garlic butter or deep-fried on a roll.
Local Maryland crab prices have soared because of overfishing, erosion, and the storms that wreak havoc on fish populations. Since a dozen jumbo-size crabs can cost $100 or more, so you’ll want to ensure your experience is worthwhile. Despite the five-star prices, the best crab houses are the aesthetic antithesis of a chic eatery — picking crabs is messy business! While some occupy prime real estate along a scenic shoreline, many landmark establishments are nondescript mid-century era taverns buried in unremarkable working-class neighborhoods on the outskirts of the city.
So how can you tell a hole-in-the-wall from a diamond-in-the-rough? Or a scenic, waterfront crab house with local catch from a tourist trap? Before you get cracking, check out our list of Maryland’s Top Crab Houses, which all meet the following crab-picky criteria of true-blue connoisseurs.
12. Jimmy Cantler's Riverside Inn Plan to dine early, or you’ll wait just to get onto the parking lot at waterfront Cantler’s, an Annapolis institution. The interior resembles a camp mess hall, with long family-style tables that you’ll likely end up sharing. Owner Jimmy Cantler, a fourth-generation waterman, insists on serving only Maryland blue crabs, delivered daily by boat, and locals love his unique seafood seasoning.
11. Captain James Landing Bypass Captain James’ kitschy steam-liner-shaped restaurant in favor of their casual crab house across the street. Dine at a picnic table on the floating harbor-front deck, where you can bang claws as loudly as you want. Go for the all-you-can-eat special: medium-sized steamed crabs, Maryland crab soup, corn-on-the-cob, some sides, and a bottomless pitcher of soda. Pick quick; the time limit is two hours.
10. Fat Boy's Crab Shack The fat, spicy crabs come out steaming and slow at this bright, beachy crab shack, curiously situated on a busy highway. To pass the time, folks sit under tiki lights on the sprawling backyard deck, munching crab balls and sipping local beer while watching their kids enjoy the lively wooded playground.
9. Riptide by the Bay This gentrified Johnny-come-lately, on an historic cobblestone street in Baltimore’s famous Fells Point, makes up for its lack of lineage by serving only Maryland blue crabs, peppered with homemade seasoning. Riptide’s creative menu previews specialties like crabcake sliders and crab burgers, made with Angus beef, provolone, applewood bacon, and lump crabmeat. Of course there are handcrafted libations for the fussier 20-something faction who come to rock out to live music on weekends.
8. Gilligan's Pier Gilligan’s is downright Jimmy Buffett-ish. Many arrive by boat at this idyllic cove off the Potomac River and follow the live music and Old Bay aroma up the sand beach in search of a table. Along with Maryland blue crabs there are local oysters, shrimp, and island fare, served every which way.
7. Costa's Inn Rickety ol’ Costas, on a busy retail-highway bordered by auto body shops, is the Grand Dame of Baltimore’s original crab houses. Here, your time-warped waitress will call you hon, no matter your age. Reservations are essential, as lines spill outside the door. Although their consistently plump crabs are flown in daily from the Gulf Coast, locals can’t get enough. Have their traditional hot fudge sundae for dessert — the perfect remedy for your burning Old Bay lips.
6. Woody's Crab House Pity the naïve motorists speeding along I-95 just south of Delaware, unaware that the crab symbols on the restaurant signs near the innocuous "North East" exit are code for scrumptious Woody’s. The crabs are always impressive and the staff is so dedicated to quality that they tell diners when the crabs aren’t up to par, and direct them to other fresh-off-the-boat catch.
5. Suicide Bridge Restaurant Despite the ominous history of its namesake bridge, this chirpy crab house on Maryland’s bucolic Eastern Shore cooks up good karma. There are panoramic views of native waterfowl soaring around Cabin Creek from the elegant dining room, and an outdoor sundeck with picnic tables. Best is the "$36.95 all you can eat" crabs, fresh from the nearby Choptank River. Be sure to ask your waitress to recite "The Ballad of Suicide Bridge."
4. Schultz's Crab House<a href="http://www.thedailymeal.com/schultzs-crab-house" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Shultz’s is the real deal: a natty Baltimore working-class tavern with circa-1950 wood paneling, and stuffed fish mounted on the walls. Patience is a virtue here, but it’s worth waiting nearly 45 minutes for those piping-hot, plump Maryland crabs, slathered in Schultz’s own branded seasoning, to be dumped on your table.
3. Mike's North This waterfront gem, with live music on an outside deck, overlooks rustic Rock Creek in Anne Arundel County. Boaters dock to dine. Mike's keeps it simple; only two sizes of Maryland blues, peppered in secret seasoning, are offered here — Number Ones (larges) Number Twos (mediums).
2. Waterman's Crab House If a crab joint can be romantic, Waterman’s has it covered. Facing due west across the Chesapeake Bay from an historic Eastern Shore town, every table offers spectacular sunset views. Still, it remains first and foremost a rollicking crab house, with an outdoor bandstand and dockside bar. There’s an all-you-can-eat "mediums" special, but the jumbos, despite their colossal prices, are hard to ignore. Afterward, take a rickshaw tour (really!) around the town.
1. L.P. Steamers On the roof deck of a narrow rowhouse with harbor views in trendy South Baltimore, crustacean devotees dig jumbo lumps of succulent meat from well-spiced crab bellies. Regulars order the Steamed Sampler for Two, which includes blue crabs, shrimp, mussels, oysters, clams, and a pitcher of brew.
